Austria | Graz(II)- Walking through the medievral courtyards

The architectures in Graz have been preserved really well. It seems the time of this small city stays at the Middle Ages. Many buildings are not only just pretty, but are unique art. Among all, the most fascinating thing to me actually exists behind the streets: there are many medieval courtyards, together with secret galleries and alleys, they form a huge maze inside the city. Following our local guide, we walked into the hidden parts of the city, enjoy the charm of this courtyards-maze.

Because the city is well-preserved, Graz was chosen to be a world heritage in 1999, and was elected as the 2003 European Capital of Culture. This is primarily attributed to the concept of urban development back to the beginning of last century. Similar with Vienna, London, Paris etc., Graz also separated the modern tall buildings in the "new city" part, away from the old city which remained same. In fact, during World War II, the Allies did bomb Graz. Similar with the next door city Leoben, Graz was also an important place for mining and metallurgy due to the rich mineral resource in the surrounding mountains, therefore became the target during the war. But because the military factories were built far away from the old town of Graz, which gave Graz more luck than Vienna during the bombing.

⬇️ Hauptplatz - central square 

⬇️Town hall on the central square 

In order to appreciate this profound historic city, touring with the tourist book is clearly not enough. The best way is to follow a knowledgeable local guide. Luckily we had a wonderful city guild from the Graz tourist center.

Most of the tourists chose a German-speaking group. There are only four people in the English group, almost a private tour for us. Another two people in the English group are also a couple, from Switzerland. In fact, German is one of Switzerland's four official languages, but because the Swiss sir is from the Italian region of Switzerland, he prefers English much more than German, so although his wife speaks very fluent German, they chose the English tour.

⬇️ Our guide Sibylle in traditional clothes, is talking with the Swiss couple

City Hall and the surrounding buildings at central square

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The central square has been the heart of Graz from the Middle Ages. It was used as a free market once one week, therefore there are many commercial buildings around the square, many can even be called art. The square was also once used as a trial and punishment place for prisoners, sometimes even for the execution. This function is similar with China's Meridian Gate(午门)- the gate of Forbidden city. Since 1550, the political center -the town hall- has also moved here. The original town hall is relatively simple, which was rebuilt in 1878 to what we are seeing now. It can be called a baby comparing with the ages of other buildings in the central square.

⬇️ City Hall in central square

Now the central square is also a cultural center, where a lot of events and cultural activities are organized. When we visited there, it was just one week before the new school semester began,  and there was a "Reading Festival" on the square. People brought books to the square, there are also a small amount of books people can borrow from the book shelfs on the square. Readers can sit on the chairs, soft pads, even rocking chairs, looked very cozy!

It is worth mentioning that different Austrian states have different school starting time. For instance, the Styria state where Graz is in, the schools began one week later than those in Vienna. This way helps Austria people to avoid squeezing too much in some popular tourist places, especially in the ski season.

⬇️Reading Festival on central square

⬇️ Rocking chairs in the Reading Festival 

Among all the commercial buildings surrounding the square, the most attractive one is probably Luegghaus building, which now belongs to the famous Austrian crystal jewelry brand -Swarovski.

⬇️Luegghaus- Swarovski owned

The most special thing of this building is the facade, full with fruits and flowers. Some relief look like faces of owls. Can you find the faces?

⬇️Interesting relief on the Luegghaus building

Well we say these reliefs are unique, not only because of the technology used to make them, the more important point is the creativity. Such relief was mainly used for indoor decoration in the old period. The owner of this building at that time (possibly Luegg family, since called the Luegghaus) was doing interior facade art business. They had this new idea to put the relief on the outside, therefore people can not only see the pretty appearance, but also realize how strong quality the relief is by surviving under the wind and rain. This is the best advertisement for their craft.

A few steps from the Square into a small road, there is a bakery shop which was there since 1569. It is hard to miss it when you pass by, as the wooden reliefs look so different with the surrounding brick constructions.

⬇️ A bakery shop from 1569

Exterior and interior surfaces of the Medieval buildings

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There are so many beautiful architectures here. On the side of the main road, we saw "skinny-style" Gothic buildings from 13th century, or "columnar-style" Romanesque buildings from Renaissance period, or later "luxurious-style" baroque buildings, so on (PS: Strictly speaking, the Baroque period was after the Middle Ages). Graz tour is an amazing feast for people who love historical architectures!

⬇️Main street with architectures in variety old styles

But there is even a larger and more amazing universe behind these beautiful buildings: the secret courtyard world. Insides the courtyards, there might hide some cozy small restaurants. Some courtyards might behave as theater stages in some festivals. Parts of the courtyards are connected by tiny alleys or galleries, forming a huge maze which only the local people know how to go through. If we did not follow our guide Sibylle, we will not have any idea which courtyards are connected, where are the alleys and where are they leading.

The largest courtyard is the backyard of the state capital building.

The state capitol building with the largest courtyard

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Graz is the capital of one of nine states in Austria: Styria state. The state capitol building-Landhaus, was built in 1557, and is till used as the state congress now. If an Italian came here, he might find the style of this courtyard very familiar, because it was designed  by anorth Italian designers Domenico dell'Aglio. Actually Domenico was invited mainly to design the city defense by then, for instance, the extra wall of Schlosssberg castle, which we talked about in the previous post.

⬇️ State capitol building Landhaus

Inside this Renaissance-style courtyard, there are three floors of corridors and arches, a small fountain decorated with a hollow bronze sculpture.

⬇️ Courtyard of the state capitol building Landhaus 

Now guess how would Austrian people use this pretty courtyard? Bingo! For concert, dance, theater, etc~~ How can Austrians miss such a good open place for Parties with music! 

⬇️ Courtyard of the state capitol building Landhaus 

Walking through the courtyard, let us look at the adjoining building. The drawing on the green gate looks like a dragon, guess what is this building for?

⬇️A mysterious building 

I was surprised about the role of this building- it is an arsenal!  Five-layers building, the first floor is now the visitor center, and the top four are filled fully by 32000 arms since AD1642: armors, helmets, swords etc. I have been to quite a few exhibitions for cold weapons, but none as incredible as this one. It is not only a display of hundreds of stuff, but a storage with tens of thousands pieces. According to Sibylle, because the cold weapons have became useless for war in the modern time, Graz people had forgot the exist of these cold weapons until one day they suddenly decided to take a look into this building...

The facade in front of this arsenal is typical Baroque style, very beautiful. Two sculptures: the left one is Ares (or Mars in Roman legend), the right one is goddess Athena, both are symbols for war. Above the main entrance, there is relief which looks similar with the drawing on the back gate we saw before, which I thought to be a dragon. But actually it turn out to be a leopard (panther), which is the emblem of the city Graz. 

⬇️ Front of the arsenal:  Sculptures of Ares & Athena; Leopard relief

Painted House

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Come out from the State capital building, diagonally across the main street,  there is another very unique building -painted house (covered with paintings). I do not know why haven't I taken a photo of it, probably a short circuit on my brain by then :(  But fortunately there is the amazing and generous Wikipedia, who has every information, and even allows us to cite their pictures.

The earliest record of this painting house in the history was in 1360, but the entire building was only decorated by painting in 1600. At that time the future Emperor Ferdinand II, who was a prince living in the building, ordered his court painter Giovanni Pietro de Pomis to paint over the entire surface of the house. But what we see today is not the original painting. In 1742, the new owner was not satisfied about the painting, and employed artist Johann Mayer to re-paint the building, which is what see now: the Greek and Roman gods.

⬇️ Painting building -by Toffel, cited from wikipedia

Walking though the town in the courtyard-maze

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Walking into the gallery right under the painting house, we accessed many pretty courtyards which are connected by secret galleries and alleys. Without our guide Sibylle, we will definitely get lost.

⬇️ Walking through the maze of courtyards with Sibylle 

⬇️A beautiful courtyard

⬇️ A cozy-looking restaurant hidden in a courtyard 

⬇️ Another restaurant hidden in the 2nd floor of another courtyard 

We wondered left and right, sometimes tunneled into the center of the town through those galleys, sometimes we tunneled out to see other sightseeings, interesting architectures etc. Occasionally we past some platzs with many cafes. It is obvious how enthusiastic people are on food here. I always believe that, the density of the cozy and tasty restaurants in a city, is a proportion with the passion people have on life there.

⬇️Restaurants with outdoor tables in a piatz

⬇️Restaurants with outdoor tables in another piatz

⬇️ A alley with window shopping display

We also saw a courtyard decorated with flowers trolley, very cute. There are a few tall tables, set with white table cloth. It seems there will be a party here.

⬇️ courtyard decorated with flowers trolleys

⬇️ An alley connecting a street and a courtyard

Next blog I will take about other interesting architectures in the city, such as the cathedral, the kissing stairway, the Glockenspiel which can sing and dance, and so on. During the trip, I realized how lucky we were, because our guide Sibylle is not only good on history, but also a very fun person who can tell interesting stories in a very lively way. Being able to tell (write) good stories is my goal and I should keep practicing. In the next blog, I will also chat a bit on the situation of the tourist guilders in China.